Bush Windbreak to Top Timaru Hut 30 k Sometime around 2:00 am, the wind perfectly reversed direction and started hammering the tent. Siiiigh. At least the new wind seemed to warm the temperature. The morning dawns with clouds galore, making a fantastically textured sky for now and an ominous foreshadowing for later. We pack and …
Month: March 2018
2/24 Along the Ahuriri
Lake Ohau to East Branch Bush Windbreak 30 k The sunrise colors this morning are fantastic, the pinks and purples bouncing off the snowy high peaks. The road wraps around the coast of the lake, flanked by tall stalks of flowering mullen. I only have a few hours left of the audiobook, so the headphones …
2/23 Of Lakes and Moon Boots
Pines Camping Area to Lake Ohau 33 k It is a chilly wake up this morning, but the reward is a brilliant neon sunrise, the colors reflecting off of the peaks and snowy faces ringing the lake. The bike trail leads forward as easily as yesterday, through several beautiful, clean, secluded clusters of pine trees, …
2/22 Visions of Mt Cook
Lake Tekapo Village to Pines Camping Area 43 k At quarter to seven we are the first ones moving about the hostel. All is quiet in the pre-dawn twilight, and the on-demand water boiler makes coffee a case of instant gratification. Breakfast is whole grain toast with avocados, a few poached eggs from the hostel’s …
2/21 A One K Day
Parkhead Motel to Tailor Made Backpackers 1 k I slept so well again, waking up to the still gentle, still continuous rain. Little peeks through the clouds hint at a load of snow up high, and when I crack the door to see how cold it actually is outside, it is really cold, perhaps colder …
2/20 Layover In Lake Tekapo
0 k A gloriously late sleep in reveals softly falling rain, but hardly a cyclone, or a gale, or even a squall. There is not even a breeze, which is disappointing considering the preparations, but cracking the door open affirms our choice to stay indoors, as at least it is very very cold. The strangely …
2/19 A Bagel Before the Storm
Ski Field Road to Lake Tekapo Village 30 k The morning is ceilinged with dark and ominous looking clouds, and we step into the wind again as we leave our night’s hunker. It’s mostly road walking today until town, and we break camp quickly to get on with it. Sunrays pierce the clouds sporadically for …
2/18 Tagging the Top
Upper Bush Stream Flats to Ski Field Road 22 k It was indeed a cold cold night. No light arrives until 6:15, we learn this morning, after trying to get up at our normal time, which is becoming too early. All layers are deployed and worn for warmth while we pack up and start hiking: …
2/17 Across the Tawny Waves
Crooked Spur Hut to Upper Bush Stream Flats 15 k It was a cold one last night, which wouldn’t have been so bad if I could have slept through the cold. But after the sun went down, the wind started, and it shook, rattled, and rolled all night long. Pair that with the sporadic frantic …
2/16 The Crooked Spur
Peel Forest Farmstay to Crooked Spur Hut 45 k shuttle 9.5 k hiking. It was a glorious night’s sleep, but much too short. We light the coffee water at 5:20, and start stuffing sleeping quilts and deflating air mattresses. We drink the morning nectar, finish packing our bags, then make our way through the dark …
muddy shoe memoirs 