0 k A gloriously late sleep in reveals softly falling rain, but hardly a cyclone, or a gale, or even a squall. There is not even a breeze, which is disappointing considering the preparations, but cracking the door open affirms our choice to stay indoors, as at least it is very very cold. The strangely …
2/19 A Bagel Before the Storm
Ski Field Road to Lake Tekapo Village 30 k The morning is ceilinged with dark and ominous looking clouds, and we step into the wind again as we leave our night’s hunker. It’s mostly road walking today until town, and we break camp quickly to get on with it. Sunrays pierce the clouds sporadically for …
2/18 Tagging the Top
Upper Bush Stream Flats to Ski Field Road 22 k It was indeed a cold cold night. No light arrives until 6:15, we learn this morning, after trying to get up at our normal time, which is becoming too early. All layers are deployed and worn for warmth while we pack up and start hiking: …
2/17 Across the Tawny Waves
Crooked Spur Hut to Upper Bush Stream Flats 15 k It was a cold one last night, which wouldn’t have been so bad if I could have slept through the cold. But after the sun went down, the wind started, and it shook, rattled, and rolled all night long. Pair that with the sporadic frantic …
2/16 The Crooked Spur
Peel Forest Farmstay to Crooked Spur Hut 45 k shuttle 9.5 k hiking. It was a glorious night’s sleep, but much too short. We light the coffee water at 5:20, and start stuffing sleeping quilts and deflating air mattresses. We drink the morning nectar, finish packing our bags, then make our way through the dark …
2/15 Shall We Cross the Rangitata?
Monkey Flower Creek to Peel Forest Farmstay 12 k on trail 18 k on road? 100+ k in cars The scenic granite lumps are awash in beautiful sunrise colors this morning. We take to the trail at 7:30, and across the flats a stunning, jagged range of peaks rise in the distance, a dramatic wall …
2/14 On Trail with my Valentine
Swin River to Monkey Flower Creek 26 K This morning was a refreshingly mellow awakening. Thinking to guess Prana’s desire rather than announce my own last night when he asked me what time I wanted to wake up, I said 6:00; this morning I simply turn the alarm off, and, when I receive no complaint, …
2/13 The Many Moods of Tussock-Land
Methven to Swin River 31 k Regrettably, the alarm insists we get up at 5:00. We double check all the places overlooked gear might be hiding, then drink our green and black breakfast. Luckily, George is used to hikers catching this bus, and is at the desk to check us out, along with his dainty …
2/12 Layover In Methven
Layover in Methven 0 k What is the best part of a layover day? Well, probably some of the parts I won’t write about are the best. But leftover pizza for breakfast is pretty darn good too. I make coffee and work on some writing while the morning lazes away. Having a break from the …
2/11 The Trail Provides…Broccoli
Harper Campsite to Methven 38 k Surprisingly, hell was not unleashed last night. A gentle steady rain began, but the wind never did. We ate breakfast, had coffee, filled our pockets with snacks that could be eaten while walking, and did the dance that is required when two people stuff two backpacks in a tiny …
muddy shoe memoirs 