Upper Constance Lake to Anne Hut 38 K I spent most of last night awake, tossing from one side to the other, hips burning and aching, knee tendons strung taught like an overwound guitar string. The saving grace was seeing the super moon rise over the ridge embracing Lake Constance, the stars peaking out, the …
1/30 Of Shortcuts, Lakes, and Hygge
Upper Travers Hut to Upper Constance Lake 19 k I slept like a rock last night, surprising since the cabins often offer such fitful sleep, finally comfortable once it cooled off enough to tuck into the sleeping bag. Earplugs are key. Prana and I and Super Mario and Princess Peach cook breakfast and chat quietly. …
1/29 Nelson Lakes – The Reunion Tour
Lake Rotoiti to Upper Travers Hut 27 k The tree did not fall on us. That was a huge relief to wake up to. Thankfully the storm never amounted to much, and the rain stopped early. The only bad thing about this morning is the sandflies. They are ready to invade as soon as we …
1/28 Out of the Richmonds
Maitland Creek Tributary to Lake Rotoiti 28 k We rise to the early alarm, and the river shining in the gloaming. The stars were out last night, and the air was cool, cool enough that a sleeping bag felt cosy rather than stifling. My mattress is undeniably deflating at a faster and faster rate, so …
1/27 Half Day at Hunter Creek
Hunter’s Creek Hut to Maitland Creek Tributary 12 K I sleep until 7:00, when my mattress has deflated enough that my hips are aching from being pushed into the hard ground. I was hoping the last few nights had been a misplaced worry, an illusion that the mattress was flatter in the mornings, but I …
1/26 Along (and in) The Wairoa
Lower Goulter Turnoff to Hunter Cabin 21 k We are both feeling tired , so we indulge in an extra snooze, an extra eight minutes of brainlessness that somehow translates to an extra thirty minutes til leaving. No matter. “Swimming hole at the Hut!” we say gleefully to each other. It’s an alternating steep and …
1/25 Over the Rintouls and to the Tarn
Moss Ridge to Lower Goulter Turnoff 21k I have no problems waking up today when the alarm goes off at 4:40. If it will buy us any time out of the heat, I am in. We leave our secret little campsite just after 6:00, and emerge above treeline to sunrise colors. The trail up over …
1/24 Starveall and A Secret Rain Barrel
Beech Saddle To Moss Ridge 22 k We wake up in our perfect secret campspot and eat breakfast and pack, still sandfly-less. It’s easy to see how a person could get completely turned around in vegetation like this, you have to be practically standing on the trail to see it, but we chose and memorized …
1/23 Along The Pelorus
Tinline/ Pelorus Confluence To Beech Saddle 29 k Awake at 5:00 this morning, both well rested, we have everything together and are hiking by 6:00. The temperature this morning is a delicacy after yesterday’s heat. Clouds rolled in last night, and they are tattered on the peaks we are walking towards. There’s a tent in …
1/22 Back On Track
Nelson to Pelorus and Tinline Confluence Nelson to Pelorus Bridge, hitching 8 k, hiking Prana’s alarm goes off at 7:00, and I sit straight up. This bed is in the running for the most comfortable bed ever, but it never cooled off last night. I’ve got calls to make this morning! I go to the …
muddy shoe memoirs 